Salvador to Arraial D´ Ajuda

Thanks for the emails of congratulations.

Following my last instalment we made the journey inland to Lencois, in the Chapti Dimonte national park, where we could escape the heat of the coast and do a couple of days of trekking.

The diamond mining ended about 20 years ago (I wouldnt quote that), sadly we weren´t fortunate enough to find any ourselves. We were, however, very fortunate to get a an amazing guide ´Mil` (Pronounced miu, short for Edmilson, ), his family were miners and he has spent his whole life in the region, in addition to knowing every rock he is highly skilled at Capoeira allowing him to bouce from rock to rock like a monkey (including at times with our bags where it was too dangerous for us to carry them ourselves).

Side Note - Careful, the gringo trail is very narrow! and I present as evidence the fact that Latif´s (a friend from uni for those who haven´t met) sister Farah was on the same trek as us. Photo enclosed as evidence, Farah-Tareq-Hannah.

The trek was to say the least very eventful. We saw lots of wildlife, including a very harmless snake, or ´simple´ acording to Mil due to its lack of poison. Drank brown water, due to the high levels of iron in it - see pic . As there had been several days of rain in the preceeding weeks there were lots of water crossings required, which meant Mil carrying our bags, creating crossing points with trees or rocks, or even becoming a bridge himself at times. Water was good though as it meant that the waterfalls would be worth seeing.

As we came to the end of the first day and after swimming at the bottom of waterfall 21 (named acording to the valley looking like the number 21 from a distance) we were slightly shocked to find out that we had to climb to the top of said waterfall () in order to get to our campsite (), and as it was getting dark this meant rock climing at dusk, dark enough not to see where to put your feet but light enough to see that the drop could quite easily take your life. When we literally couldn´t see a thing, we contined on with 3 head torches between 6, getting to our shelter for the night which consisted of an overhanging ledge on a cliff face. Even after a caprinah it wasn´t the best night sleep I´ve had, sleeping bag plus jungle makes you hot. Mosquitos suck, no pun intended, and Hannah´s currently winning with over 50 bites.

Day 2 involved bare foot walking in the jungle and ended with Brazil´s highest waterfall (400m) called Fumaca, smoke, due to the wind picking up the spray so that it looks like the water is travelling up. Viewing it involved crawling out on a ledge to look down (, socks plus sandals = beard), quite stomach wrenching even for the non queasy.



I would say it was far from a big claim to suggest it as the besk trek ever.

Lencois was good too, relaxed atmosphere, swimming in the local water holes in the afternoon (see pic of locals doing their laundry - ), and drinking in the evenings with the gringo´s (one of whom went to school with Hannah´s brother see Side Note above).

We are now back on the coast at Arraial D´ Ajuda (Ajuda Church) chilling at the beaches, and sleeping in hammocks in between reading and trying to learn spanish. So far every dinner here has been at a self service restaurant where you weigh your plate to get your bill.

Just remembered we walked 14kms along the coast from Trancoso yesturday in the baking sun, but other than that we´re are definately chilling. Whilst we were there we bought a fresh pineapple from the guy with donkey, eaten whole.

Big Love,
T